Hyderabad, Telangana, India
– October 31 – November 11, 2016
I've come home to a time change and presidential change. During my time in Hyderabad, there was a national money change.
The world's tallest monolith of Gautama Buddha, Hyderabad, Telangana, India
Buddha Statue- Hussain Sagar Lake, Tank Bund-Wah, Hyderabad
This is an account of some of
my time attending the ICANN conference in Hyderabad, Telangana,
India -- the 57th convening of attorneys, statesmen and stateswomen,
business and technical and academic leaders, and NGOs and civil society
representatives--since 1999.
Our mission is to coordinate, at the overall level, the global Internet's systems of unique identifiers and, in particular, to ensure the stable and secure operation of the Internet's unique identifiers--the names and numbers used by connected devices to navigate the Internet.
ICANN57 - The Conference
Our mission is to coordinate, at the overall level, the global Internet's systems of unique identifiers and, in particular, to ensure the stable and secure operation of the Internet's unique identifiers--the names and numbers used by connected devices to navigate the Internet.
This was the main
event--ICANN's first meeting post-transition of the Internet's Domain Name System (DNS) from the US
government to us.
Our opening ceremony included
welcomes from leadership of India central government, who are our hosts. And
also from the state of Telangana, one of 29 states in India, with 35 million people,
which contains the city of Hyderabad, with about 6.6 million people. Telangana
was granted statehood in June 2014.
We learned that the largest
offices of major corporations—aside from their main headquarters—is in
Hyderabad. This is true for Microsoft, Google, Amazon, and at least a dozen
others. Deloitte, for example, has 29,000 employees in India, most of them in
Hyderabad. And we learned of a project that has just begun, to lay 150,000 km
of fiber cabling throughout the city.
The opening ceremony
concluded with a traditional dance performed by women in colorful, flowing
garments.
Unlike other conferences,
where most of us are in the same hotel, about 10 or 12 hotels were occupied
this time by our 3,141 registered attendees from 100+ countries.
Checking-in to the Radisson
Checking-in to the Radisson
Bindi tray, for Diwali
I missed the tour of
Hyderabad's technology hub, but it is apparently an impressive place, designed
as an incubator for startups, as I understand it, and with a lot of Internet
bandwidth and technology resources for locals.
My time in meetings was short
this conference, leaving me much unscheduled time for other activities.
The Social Time
On Friday, ICANN hosted a
business stakeholders lunch. As one of the presenters in ICANN’s business
outreach webinar a couple weeks prior, I was glad to get to meet some of the
attendees and learn of their experience so far.
Lunch with Chris and Yaser
Throughout the first couple
days, I met and spent time with .asia staff, local university students, ICANN
fellows, local business people, local techies, and others. A successful
businessman from Nepal invited me to hike to Everest base camp. OK--that sounds
like fun!
On Saturday night, a gala was
held on the grounds adjacent to the convention center. I ate good food,
listened to trendy music, had my photo taken a lot, and got a mehndi—the back
of my hand painted with henna—an intricate design that is just now fading a
week later. (It's pronounced like "ma-HIN-dee.") There were
bangle-makers and other local craftspeople there, showing how they make their wares.
My Mehndi -- and two others
Photo credit: Reg Levy
I also had the good fortune
to meet and be treated personally by the two hosts—one from the local
convention and visitors bureau, and one from the central government of India. They explained
to me many reasons why this is an interesting time in the history of India.
Mandala, made of flower petals and leaves, at entrance to the Gala
Photo credit: Reg Levy
Mandala, made of flower petals and leaves, at entrance to the Gala
Bhavin, a domainer I met nearly 10 years ago, was there, too. He and his brother Div are on the cover of Forbes Asia this month for being the youngest billionaires in India. Super nice guys, and
they throw excellent parties. They both live mainly in Dubai now, with part-time homes in San Francisco, Vancouver, and Mumbai. Their
rags-to-riches, bootstrapping story is inspiring to many, including me. It is good to see these young guys succeed so highly.
Sunday night, I had been
invited for dinner with the domainers, as well as to a party at the Playboy
Club hosted by a domain company. But instead I had dinner with a potential
client in a beautiful two-story apartment with a balcony on the 19th floor of a fancy residential hotel.
Monday evening, at the Women in DNS reception, I met several people, including Charu Lata ("CHAR'-oo"), a charming woman
who introduced me to her equally charming boyfriend, VA (“vee-A'.”). I
was due at a dinner with the Fellows, but went with Charu and VA to the dot blog gTLD launch celebration instead.
It was an outdoor dance party
in an enclave in a part of Hyderabad called Jubilee Hills and the weather was
beautiful. Aside from the mosquitoes, it was a very pleasant atmosphere. (The
hosts handed each guest a supply of mosquito repellent on entry, and there were plenty of fans around.)
We also got glowing neon adornments to wear, drinks served in vessels of ice, from a bar made of ice, and had a DJ playing
loud dance music, with a large, illuminated dance floor, delicious hot food served by roving
tray-carriers, a photo booth, magicians, and other entertainment. Hundreds attended. It was a good
time.
Me and local businessman Samit at .blog launch party
Ice bar at .blog launch party
Photo credit: Reg Levy
Me and local businessman Samit at .blog launch party
Ice bar at .blog launch party
Tuesday night, I and four
others were guests of VA and Charu at their apartment at Taj Banjara in Banjara Hills, which is like an India version of Beverly Hills. We had four amazing courses of dinner,
served by one or both of our two butlers, and spent time on the balcony
overlooking a lake and, in the distance, a city street. It was about 3am when I
arrived back at my hotel.
View from a restaurant at Taj Banjara
Wednesday night, I and three
others were guests of VA and Charu for a visit to Birla Mandir, a hilltop Hindu temple made of white marble, and then on to dinner at Falaknuma Palace.
Charu and me in salwar kameezes, outside of Birla Mandir
We were accompanied by a
security detail, and drivers for our vehicles--a shiny white Land Rover and a
white 2016 Jaguar F-PACE—beauty of a car.
To me, it seems it would take a lot of courage just to drive vehicles like that on the city’s chaotic streets. But these guys were special forces personnel in the military before becoming private security detail, and they flew deftly through the streets and alleyways of Hyderabad to and from the palace.
To me, it seems it would take a lot of courage just to drive vehicles like that on the city’s chaotic streets. But these guys were special forces personnel in the military before becoming private security detail, and they flew deftly through the streets and alleyways of Hyderabad to and from the palace.
After a five-star experience
at the palace restaurant Wait—I am calling it a restaurant, and there were dining rooms inside, but ours was the only table on the palace’s giant platform outside, overlooking the old city
of Hyderabad, with the 600-year-old Golconda Fort on a hill in the distance,
and stars filling the night sky. It didn’t feel like we were in a restaurant at
all.
Our dining spot -- our single table was here, just at the rail overlooking the city
Our dining spot -- our single table was here, just at the rail overlooking the city
After a scrumptious dinner, our party of
six was offered a private tour of the palace, which we accepted. We saw the Nizam’s
101-seat dining room table, the 57-foot-high ceilings of intricately carved
wood, a huge pool table (even bigger than a snooker table) that is apparently
one of only two in the world (the other being in Buckingham Palace), chairs
upholstered in camel skin, telephones made of ivory, a suspended staircase of solid marble, pure jade furnishings, and beautifully manicured gardens and grounds.
The palace was designed by a British architect who used Italian and Tudor architecture styles. It is made
completely with Italian marble and covers an area of 93,971 square meters
(about 23 acres).
In the late 1800's, when the palace was constructed, the Nizam was said to have been the wealthiest man in the world.
In the late 1800's, when the palace was constructed, the Nizam was said to have been the wealthiest man in the world.
On exit, as we descended the
staircase, we were showered with the petals of 1,000 rose blooms, freshly
plucked that day, cast from 60 feet above.
Rose petal shower, Falaknuma Palace
Awaiting us at the bottom of the stairs was a vintage, royal-looking carriage drawn by two horses, and attended by ornately dressed footmen and driver.
Rose petal shower, Falaknuma Palace
Awaiting us at the bottom of the stairs was a vintage, royal-looking carriage drawn by two horses, and attended by ornately dressed footmen and driver.
I was helped up into my seat
and a padded stool was placed under my feet when I sat down. The six of us
posed for a few photos in the carriage and then took the slow, six-minute ride through
the gardens back to the car park, where our drivers helped us into our
vehicles for the ride to a quick photo op at Charminar on the way back to our
respective hotels.
We stopped to take a few photos of Charminar
Charminar
Charminar - stock photo
Charminar - stock photo
On Thursday, after checking
out of the Radisson, I met VA and Charu and one other guest at Taj Krishna for
a late lunch. The Taj had opened a private section of the outdoor dining area
for us--one table with umbrella in a garden surrounded by little pools and waterfalls. The meal was
delicious, and the service was outstanding.
Taj Krishna lunch
After lunch, we stopped back
at Taj Banjara for chocolates and to get VA and Charu's bags. Then the three of
us made the ride to the airport where we parted ways.
VA and Charu, leaving Falaknuma Palace
Some Highlights
One night, at a dinner, I
asked what meat it was that I was eating. "Goat," I was told. He must
have seen the surprised look on my face, because he immediately corrected
himself, "Sheep, I mean. It's sheep--I mean lamb," he said.
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Uber will take a passenger
from one side of the city to the other for about US $3. That’s a 50-minute ride in moderate traffic. I took Ubers a lot. Average fare? About US $1.10
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Some of the seemingly simplest
things to communicate were difficult for me, like getting an Uber driver to
understand that I would like for him to aim an air vent toward the backseat, or
turn the a/c fan higher.
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I was surprised to find on my
return that I have lost two pounds—surprised mainly because I ate lots of bread and rice
and chocolate, and drank wine, and had a few soft drinks, too. Thankfully, I
never got “Delhi Belly,” as they call it. But I know one person who did, unfortunately. He recovered, but had a few rough days there, he said.
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On Wednesday, November 9, I
was interviewed by India national television about my thoughts on the US
election. (I looked for the video, but didn't find it.) I had just spent
part of the morning with a minister in the Italian government—having breakfast,
and watching the US election results come in.
ETV - India National Television
She told me that Trump reminded Italians of Silvio Berlusconi—a highly successful real estate magnate with media interests, no history in politics or military, and a big fan of pretty women. She told me that Berlusconi was originally elected in 1994 as an outsider, and continued to be reelected until his last term ended in 2011.
ETV - India National Television
She told me that Trump reminded Italians of Silvio Berlusconi—a highly successful real estate magnate with media interests, no history in politics or military, and a big fan of pretty women. She told me that Berlusconi was originally elected in 1994 as an outsider, and continued to be reelected until his last term ended in 2011.
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The driving style in
Hyderabad can be compared to US-style walking through a bustling place like
Grand Central Station at rush hour...the weaving, lack of demarcated lanes, and
general sense of urgency.
One difference here, though, is that these vehicles rarely touch. And when they do, the drivers settle it amongst themselves, I was told.
In my many hours on the streets in Hyderabad, I never saw an accident. I did, to my eye, see several close calls--among my vehicle and people, dogs, cows, tuk-tuks, and other vehicles. There is constant horn-honking, and it was heart-stopping action whenever I chose to keep my eyes open and watch the driver navigate through traffic.
One difference here, though, is that these vehicles rarely touch. And when they do, the drivers settle it amongst themselves, I was told.
In my many hours on the streets in Hyderabad, I never saw an accident. I did, to my eye, see several close calls--among my vehicle and people, dogs, cows, tuk-tuks, and other vehicles. There is constant horn-honking, and it was heart-stopping action whenever I chose to keep my eyes open and watch the driver navigate through traffic.
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You can read more about it here--India’s War On Cash
By The Foundation for Economic Education on November 15, 2016
...or watch a 2-minute video - India's Cash Crisis
By VICE News Tonight on HBO on December 1, 2016
Money Money Money
An effort by the Indian government to reduce fraud occurred on November 10, removing the two most popular denominations of its paper currency from circulation—with no notice.
Overnight, billions of dollars’ (and trillions of rupees') worth of Indian cash became worthless, and we found shopkeepers and currency exchange vendors refusing to take our 500- and 1000-rupee notes on our final two days there. (INR ₹500 converts to about US $7.50.) All ATM's and banks in India were shut for at least two days, some say longer.
The demonetization is a crackdown on black money--and resulted in what was reported by Reuters as "cash chaos," because it was a surprise to the entire 1.3 billion population of India, and to the world. The currency had just been introduced a year ago, and the two denominations together account for 86% of the cash in circulation in India. Notably, the country is a cash-based society.
Replacements for these notes are intended to be lower-denomination notes, a new 2000-rupee note, and a new mobile payment system, PayTM (paytm.com), announced and debuted by Prime Minister Modi on November 10.
By The Foundation for Economic Education on November 15, 2016
...or watch a 2-minute video - India's Cash Crisis
By VICE News Tonight on HBO on December 1, 2016
My First Hotel - Ibis
It became obvious to me quickly
that there was a lot of build-up of anticipation at the hotels, preparing for this conference.
I think the staff at this little hotel was excited to have global conference
attendees there. For my first four nights, though, I believe I was the only ICANN
conference participant at their hotel.
Everyone was super helpful
and attentive. They provided me a dedicated driver each day, and each evening
they brought fresh fruits to my room, and sometimes chocolates and cold soft drinks and warm
cookies, too.
At breakfast, my meals were made to order, despite there being a full buffet. And two wait staff were always nearby waiting for my next request.
I thought, "I could get used to this."
At breakfast, my meals were made to order, despite there being a full buffet. And two wait staff were always nearby waiting for my next request.
I thought, "I could get used to this."
Some of one night’s treats from Ibis
On the morning I checked-out
of Ibis, walking to the Uber, I found the kitchen staff, wait staff, lobby staff,
maintenance people—all lined-up from the building’s front door to the car door,
to say good-bye to me. And my favorite server, Muangi, handed me what she knew was my
favorite beverage as I got into the car. She had a big smile on her face and
tears in her eyes.
Security
There is a lot of security
around all conference venues and hotels, along with other hotels, office
buildings and shopping malls. Barricades or walls are at approaches to most buildings. Bags go through an x-ray and hand inspection, and
the people go through metal detectors and get wanded as well. Cars are checked
by dogs, and men carrying undercarriage mirrors, and get trunk inspections. Our
busses were boarded by security personnel at our approach to every destination.
Security at Charminar
Traveling Back to USA
It was about a 5-hour flight
from Hyderabad to Dubai. My seat was changed after boarding when I was selected
by one of the Emirates cabin crew to sit next to two very covered Muslim women
who wanted to have "a lady" sit next to them. I joked that I was no lady, but she
moved me anyway. They were teenagers, and I think this was the first airplane ride for both of them. I slept for most of that leg of the trip.
Emirates flight crew - stock photo
In Dubai, I was still very
tired, and so checked pricing for an upgrade to business class for the chance to sleep more—US$3200. Ouch. That's $250 per hour—no thanks. So I went online and changed to a seat in what looked like
an open 4-seat row.
Got it!
Got it!
Dubai Airport – DXB
I enjoyed 13 hours in very
relaxed lounging accommodations—slept stretched-out for most of the flight from
Dubai to Washington, DC, and with four blankets and four pillows, at no extra charge!
Flight route, Emirates Air -- Dubai to Washington, DC
It's good to be back home
now.
: - )
